Bike: how to mount a fixed pinion
Would you like to go to the fixie? To do this, you will need a fixed pinion. Once fitted to your bike, you can pedal back to block the wheel and brake, allowing you to perform your skid in style … How to adjust your fixed pinion? Immediately the details!
As a reminder, a fixie is a bike without derailleur or speed and on which it is always necessary to pedal to advance. What makes the real singularity of a fixie remains, however, its braking system, this one being done via the pedal, by restraint or blocking. To be able to perform this braking, you need a fixed pinion instead of a freewheel. A place to practice!
A simple assembly
To experience the unique sensations of a fixie, you must mount a fixed pinion hub on your mount. You should know that these types of hubs have two different diameters of screws. The sprocket is screwed on the bigger one on the inside while the counter nut screws on the smallest on the outside to lock the pinion.
For mounting, first, place the pinion with your hand on the shaft by turning it until the end of the thread. Then install the counter nut by screwing it this time in a direction opposite to that of the tightening of the pinion. All you have to do is tighten the pinion sharply with a chain gripper, and then tighten the counter nut with its particular key and the trick is played! Note that for the wheel you can buy one ready or purchase a track hub then radiate it yourself or have it radiated by a pro instead of your road hub on the wheel you already have.
DIY for connoisseurs
If you are familiar with DIY and want to make modifications from a road wheel, you can also do the following. Attach the pinion first to the hub, to lock the freewheel. The operation requires glue like the slow-acting Araldite, to apply on the threads. Clean them first with acetone then with soap and water.
Once the threads are clean and dry, cover them with glue and wait about 10 minutes. Then screw in the fixed pinion and tighten it to the maximum. Likewise for the counter nut paying attention to the threading then, cover the whole with another layer of glue and wait until the whole dries. For optimal drying, it is recommended to turn the wheel over two to three days. Start by turning it every 5 to 10 minutes in the beginning then every hour and finally space 3 to 5 hours.
Transforming the freewheel
If desired, you can also turn your freewheel into a fixed sprocket using the following method. To do this, it will be necessary to dismantle the body of your cassette freewheel to fill it with solder. You should then heat the balls with a touch but not too much to avoid damaging the bowl on the other side and then pour the solder as neatly as possible, taking care not to pour it on the sides.
Once the solder has been cast, let it cool to work the body with the file. Register the contact surface with the hub body so that it is flat. Then move to the grooves level, if the braze has ever flowed in. It is necessary that everything be clear to be able to return correctly on the hub. Once the grooves are clean, reassemble the freewheel on the hub body. Lubricate a little and replace the shaft before putting the balls back into contact with the bearing cup. To finish, return the first dust cover, screw the cone back, followed by the lock nut and finally the 2nd dust cover. There you go. You now know how to climb and tinker with a fixed pinion. See you soon for more tips!